Saturday, May 24, 2014

Escape to Edinburgh

Bagpiper with the city of Edinburgh behind
The Stover Senior family came to visit last week and we got to see many sites in the UK (some again, some for the first time).

They arrived tired and weary of a long flight, but our adventure was just beginning.  We took them on the usual first day round to the British Museum to see the stolen art (none of it is actually from Britain...), to the National Gallery to see the paid for art (at least Britain legitimately owns these works of art!), and treated them to their first British pub (but certainly not their last!)

Following our busy day in London, we boarded a train at King's Cross and took the four hour journey to Edinburgh, Scotland. While there we learned a lot about the city and wanted to share a few interesting facts with you!

Eight things you (probably) did not know about Edinburgh:

1) The town is not flat - steep climbs, lots of steps, and stops to take a breather dominated our trip.  Here are some examples of the Edinburgh landscape:





 2) J.K. Rowling spent some time in Edinburgh with her sister following her divorce.  It was during this time she wrote most of the first Harry Potter book and was known to frequent The Elephant Cafe - which has a wonderful view of the Edinburgh castle.  Perhaps this is where her inspiration for Hogwarts came from!?!

Outside The Elephant House
Enjoying breakfast at The Elephant House
The view of Edinburgh Castle from The Elephant House
3) Speaking of the Edinburgh castle, historically it has been a stronghold for Scotland in many battles for independence.  Ironically, Scotland is currently trying to once again gain independence and will soon be having a referendum vote to become independent of the UK.

B and E at the castle

The Stovers in front of the castle
View of the city from a cannon window
Edinburgh castle is located at the top of a steep hill
4) 'Arthur's Seat,' the highest point in Edinburgh, is located within the Holyrood park - a park of grassy hills situated in the center of town.  It is believed by some that this hill was the site of Camelot, in which King Arthur reigned.  I don't know if that is true, but it does provide spectacular views of the city, as well as the ruins of a 15th Century Abbey.
At the top of Arthur's seat
The Stovers at the top

Ruins of a 15th Century Abbey
5) The Queens Royal Yacht Britannia is docked in Edinburgh and you can tour it!
The Royal Yacht Britannia
On the Yacht
The main dining room, which is still used today for those with enough money to rent it out!
The royal sitting room
6) Scotland has a proud history of distilling whisky, which is where the term Scotch Whisky comes from.  The largest collection of unopened whisky bottles is housed in Edinburgh at the Scotch Whisky experience.  If you visit, you even get a sampling of Scotch whisky, and a demonstration on how it is made.
Jean and Jeff in the Whisky Collection
Sampling Scotch Whisky
The largest collection of unopened whisky bottles in the world
7) Edinburgh has its very own Parthenon, or at least half of one.  In 1823 construction began on what was to be The National Monument of Scotland - dedicated to Scottish soldiers and sailors who died in the Napoleonic wars.  However, by 1829 funds has run out and the building was left unfinished.  It is now known by the locals as "Scotland's Disgrace."
You can see the half finished Parthenon just right of center, behind the dark bell tower 
8) Brandon was lucky enough to celebrate his 29th birthday in Edinburgh, so we treated him by eating at a fancy restaurant, where he received a very special dessert.


Check back soon to hear about our day trip to Bath, England!

Friday, May 2, 2014

Man Bieau P'tit Jèrri



Jersey is a channel island near France that has a unique political identity.  It is a crown dependency (protected by the United Kingdom) but has the power of self-determination.  It has a population of about 90,000 and is about 9 long and 5 miles wide.  It is about 14 miles from France so on a clear day you can see the coast of France and a lot of their architecture is french. 

Emily and I visited Jersey recently to visit a friend (Kit) who is a local musician and is working to help save the native language, Jèrriais.  

After arrival we went with Kit to The Crab Shack and got fresh seafood. 


The meal was lots of work, but when on an island, you have to get fresh seafood.

 After a relaxing night we went out on our own to Mont Orgueil Castle.  It was built over 600 years ago and has defended Jersey from the French ever since. It has lots of nice history, and everywhere you turned there was another passage way with something new to explore.  We also really liked how they integrated art into the castle from local artists in order to help you better interact and learn on your visit (see the knight for example).

The castle and the beach

Inside the lower ward

Some art in the castle

A little dress up for us older kids


After the castle we walked along the coast to get a geocache and then Kit took us on a driving tour to various historical sites in search of dolmen, neolithic grave sites. We spent most of the afternoon outside in the sun and searched (sometimes in vain) for these sites labeled on our map.  This wondering around the island, however, showed us sights many people don't get to see.  We walked along the north east coast and saw the dramatic cliffs and ancient battlements.  

 The Dolmen, with some semi-modern changes to how it sat for hundreds of years

Our second day we were off to the north west of the island to explore the beaches, bunkers, and ruins.  The Nazis controlled Jersey from 1940-1945 and Hitler was very proud that he controlled part of the UK.  So much so that he was not ready to give it up without a fight.  He set out to make the island a fortress.  Over 40 Nazi bunkers and fortifications still exist on the island, with miles of tunnel and other ruined battlements.  The most impressive is near an ancient castle and the spot of our hike.  We set of on a quest to find a geocache that ended up taking us 2 hours to find and in the end, the gps was out of batteries but we managed to make the final find and sign the log.  (See pictures below)


Our adventure began with an impromptu tour via construction workers

The castle ruins
The Nazi ruins, such an impressive bunker.  It has 5 floors.

In the middle left of the shot you can see another bunker, they were everywhere!
 Signing the log of the Geocache

We spent our evening eating fish and chips in "town" (what the locals call St. Helier) and took the bus home as Kit was going to a political rally.  Once again, taking public transport outside of London makes you appreciate how frequent and convenient public transportation is in London (as we waited 40 minutes for the next bus going our direction!) 

Our final full day in Jersey found us in the Jersey War Tunnels (built by the Nazis to hold ammunition and later turned into a war hospital).  It was a great vision into the past, a look at occupied Jersey.  Kit talked about how his father and other locals were around for the occupation.  It was some of the only British soil taken over by the Nazis.

The rain was coming down for our final day so we drove around the island in search of things to do inside.  The afternoon found a bit of sun so we decided to search for more historic sites.  We found a nice old Dolmen that was unlike any other on the island.  However, on our trip back to the car, the wind and rain picked up and we got hit by mother nature.  

This was said to be 6,000 years old!

We spend our final evening downtown listening to the band Kit is in, Badlabeques.  They are a band of local musicians that sings in the local language of Jerriais.  Kit is doing a similar masters degree as me (MA in Ethnomusicology), he is trying to revitalize the language in Jersey using music and Ethnomusicology.  You can check out their music at www.badlabeques.net (you can download their Christmas album for free).  


The Band (Kit in the middle playing Guitar).  

The accordion player in the left of the screen is actually a local politician who gave us a little history on the politics of the island.

Stay tuned for the next installment, the visit of the Stover Sr. family.

Brandon