Escape to Edinburgh

Bagpiper with the city of Edinburgh behind

The Stover Senior family came to visit last week and we got to see many sites in the UK (some again, some for the first time).

They arrived tired and weary of a long flight, but our adventure was just beginning.  We took them on the usual first day round to the British Museum to see the stolen art (none of it is actually from Britain...), to the National Gallery to see the paid for art (at least Britain legitimately owns these works of art!), and treated them to their first British pub (but certainly not their last!)

Following our busy day in London, we boarded a train at King's Cross and took the four hour journey to Edinburgh, Scotland. While there we learned a lot about the city and wanted to share a few interesting facts with you!

Eight things you (probably) did not know about Edinburgh:

1) The town is not flat - steep climbs, lots of steps, and stops to take a breather dominated our trip.  Here are some examples of the Edinburgh landscape:

 2) J.K. Rowling spent some time in Edinburgh with her sister following her divorce.  It was during this time she wrote most of the first Harry Potter book and was known to frequent The Elephant Cafe - which has a wonderful view of the Edinburgh castle.  Perhaps this is where her inspiration for Hogwarts came from!?!

Outside The Elephant House

Enjoying breakfast at The Elephant House

The view of Edinburgh Castle from The Elephant House

3) Speaking of the Edinburgh castle, historically it has been a stronghold for Scotland in many battles for independence.  Ironically, Scotland is currently trying to once again gain independence and will soon be having a referendum vote to become independent of the UK.

B and E at the castle

The Stovers in front of the castle

View of the city from a cannon window

Edinburgh castle is located at the top of a steep hill

4) 'Arthur's Seat,' the highest point in Edinburgh, is located within the Holyrood park - a park of grassy hills situated in the center of town.  It is believed by some that this hill was the site of Camelot, in which King Arthur reigned.  I don't know if that is true, but it does provide spectacular views of the city, as well as the ruins of a 15th Century Abbey.

At the top of Arthur's seat

The Stovers at the top

Ruins of a 15th Century Abbey

5) The Queens Royal Yacht Britannia is docked in Edinburgh and you can tour it!

The Royal Yacht Britannia

On the Yacht

The main dining room, which is still used today for those with enough money to rent it out!

The royal sitting room

6) Scotland has a proud history of distilling whisky, which is where the term Scotch Whisky comes from.  The largest collection of unopened whisky bottles is housed in Edinburgh at the Scotch Whisky experience.  If you visit, you even get a sampling of Scotch whisky, and a demonstration on how it is made.

Jean and Jeff in the Whisky Collection

Sampling Scotch Whisky

The largest collection of unopened whisky bottles in the world

7) Edinburgh has its very own Parthenon, or at least half of one.  In 1823 construction began on what was to be The National Monument of Scotland - dedicated to Scottish soldiers and sailors who died in the Napoleonic wars.  However, by 1829 funds has run out and the building was left unfinished.  It is now known by the locals as "Scotland's Disgrace."

You can see the half finished Parthenon just right of center, behind the dark bell tower 

8) Brandon was lucky enough to celebrate his 29th birthday in Edinburgh, so we treated him by eating at a fancy restaurant, where he received a very special dessert.

Check back soon to hear about our day trip to Bath, England!

Man Bieau P'tit Jèrri

Jersey is a channel island near France that has a unique political identity.  It is a crown dependency (protected by the United Kingdom) but has the power of self-determination.  It has a population of about 90,000 and is about 9 long and 5 miles wide.  It is about 14 miles from France so on a clear day you can see the coast of France and a lot of their architecture is french. 

Emily and I visited Jersey recently to visit a friend (Kit) who is a local musician and is working to help save the native language, Jèrriais.  

After arrival we went with Kit to The Crab Shack and got fresh seafood. 

 

The meal was lots of work, but when on an island, you have to get fresh seafood.

 After a relaxing night we went out on our own to Mont Orgueil Castle.  It was built over 600 years ago and has defended Jersey from the French ever since. It has lots of nice history, and everywhere you turned there was another passage way with something new to explore.  We also really liked how they integrated art into the castle from local artists in order to help you better interact and learn on your visit (see the knight for example).

The castle and the beach

Inside the lower ward

 

Some art in the castle

A little dress up for us older kids

After the castle we walked along the coast to get a geocache and then Kit took us on a driving tour to various historical sites in search of dolmen, neolithic grave sites. We spent most of the afternoon outside in the sun and searched (sometimes in vain) for these sites labeled on our map.  This wondering around the island, however, showed us sights many people don't get to see.  We walked along the north east coast and saw the dramatic cliffs and ancient battlements.  

 The Dolmen, with some semi-modern changes to how it sat for hundreds of years

Our second day we were off to the north west of the island to explore the beaches, bunkers, and ruins.  The Nazis controlled Jersey from 1940-1945 and Hitler was very proud that he controlled part of the UK.  So much so that he was not ready to give it up without a fight.  He set out to make the island a fortress.  Over 40 Nazi bunkers and fortifications still exist on the island, with miles of tunnel and other ruined battlements.  The most impressive is near an ancient castle and the spot of our hike.  We set of on a quest to find a geocache that ended up taking us 2 hours to find and in the end, the gps was out of batteries but we managed to make the final find and sign the log.  (See pictures below)

 

Our adventure began with an impromptu tour via construction workers

 

The castle ruins

 

The Nazi ruins, such an impressive bunker.  It has 5 floors.

 

In the middle left of the shot you can see another bunker, they were everywhere!

 Signing the log of the Geocache

We spent our evening eating fish and chips in "town" (what the locals call St. Helier) and took the bus home as Kit was going to a political rally.  Once again, taking public transport outside of London makes you appreciate how frequent and convenient public transportation is in London (as we waited 40 minutes for the next bus going our direction!) 

Our final full day in Jersey found us in the Jersey War Tunnels (built by the Nazis to hold ammunition and later turned into a war hospital).  It was a great vision into the past, a look at occupied Jersey.  Kit talked about how his father and other locals were around for the occupation.  It was some of the only British soil taken over by the Nazis.

The rain was coming down for our final day so we drove around the island in search of things to do inside.  The afternoon found a bit of sun so we decided to search for more historic sites.  We found a nice old Dolmen that was unlike any other on the island.  However, on our trip back to the car, the wind and rain picked up and we got hit by mother nature.  

 

This was said to be 6,000 years old!

We spend our final evening downtown listening to the band Kit is in, Badlabeques.  They are a band of local musicians that sings in the local language of Jerriais.  Kit is doing a similar masters degree as me (MA in Ethnomusicology), he is trying to revitalize the language in Jersey using music and Ethnomusicology.  You can check out their music at www.badlabeques.net (you can download their Christmas album for free).  

 

The Band (Kit in the middle playing Guitar).  

The accordion player in the left of the screen is actually a local politician who gave us a little history on the politics of the island.

Stay tuned for the next installment, the visit of the Stover Sr. family.

Brandon

Our Canterbury Tale

The Stover Jr. family recently took a trip to Canterbury, UK over reading week (a week off from school, like spring break).  We spent 2 nights there and saw much of the city.  Canterbury is the setting of Chaucer's 14th Century collection of stories, The Canterbury Tales. This was one of the first books ever published in English.  It describes the pilgrimage many people made from London to Canterbury to visit the shrine of a famous Archbishop, after he was murdered in the Canterbury Cathedral in the 1170.

So, of course, we had to visit the Canterbury Cathedral.  It is a beautiful Gothic cathedral, much like Westminster in London, and is a World Heritage Site.  It is also the symbolic leader of the worldwide Anglican church and home of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the principal leader of the Church of England.  We even got to attend a short service of Evensong while there and it was a very lovely and powerful service.  Fun fact: Canterbury was where Christianity was first brought to England!

The Canterbury Cathedral

A selfie in front of the Cathedral

A street in downtown Canterbury, with the cathedral in the background

Since we considered this little trip our Valentine's Day gift to each other we decided to have a fancy dinner out while in Canterbury (this is a big deal for us, since we don't have a lot of money right now, and usually just purchase cheap food...) So we found this nice little restaurant on the river called 'The Old Weaver's House' and had a lovely dinner in a charming historic building.

The quaint restaurant where we had 'Valentine's Dinner'

Canterbury is a rather small town, with cute little boutique shops up and down the main streets.  It is easy to walk through the whole town in a matter of hours, perusing the little shops and historic buildings.  There are also a few museums to check out, such as the Canterbury Roman museum which gives you a look into what the city was like in the Roman period.  The Beany House of Art and Knowledge was another museum we visited, which houses random artifacts and collections from around the world.  Here you can see Emily playing with some dolls, really she just needed a break from walking around!

Emily playing with dolls

Then there are the historic gems that we found in the town - like the ruins of an old castle and the Westgate into the city, which is the largest surviving city gate in England, built around 1379.  While wandering through the streets we ran across this out-of-the-way path that lead to a pretty park. We also walked through an old hospital, but not in the sense that we use the word.  It was actually a place of hospitality for pilgrims to who were coming to Canterbury to visit the cathedral in the 12th Century.  We don't have any good pictures of that, but it was an interesting visit.

Ruins of the Canterbury Castle from 1066

The Westgate into the city

A river running through town

The 'out-of-the-way path' we stumbled upon

While we had a lovely time in Canterbury, it is a place you can see in only one or two days.  It is a quaint little town, that is easily walkable, with many historic buildings and stories.  A worthwhile weekend trip from London!

Romance in France*

*So the title of this post was a bit trickier than the other two, because very little rhymes with "Paris."  But since we traveled to France with three couples, I thought this title would still work!

Anyway, our last stop on the trip around Europe was in Paris, France.  This is a city I have been anxiously waiting to visit for a very long time!! I took French classes in high school and have collected Eiffel Tower and Paris themed decorations since college.  So, needless to say, I was really looking forward to this part of the trip.

La Famille à La Tour Eiffel

Highlights of Paris:
The Eiffel Tower - Obviously, this is a must-see in Paris.  Many people have actually told me that the tower is ugly in person.  However, I thought it was absolutely beautiful!  It is much more intricate than I expected when you see it up close.  We were able to take an elevator ride to the top of the tower, but only after waiting in line for over an hour.  But it was so worth it, just check out the pics...
 

Intricate designs on the Tower

The Family at the second level of the tower, with views of Paris

The large building in the top right corner is the Sacré Cœur

View of the Arc de Triompe from the top of the Eiffel Tower

Conversations in French - As I mentioned earlier, I took a bit of French lessons in high school and I spent the past year reviewing my skills using the Rosetta Stone program.  However, I am nowhere near being able to speak fluently, I just know enough to get by.  I actually managed to have a decent conversation with a man sitting near us at a cafe one day.  He saw us looking at the menu slightly confused (this place only had a French menu) and made a suggestion that we try the "Filet de Boeuf avec pommes de terre" which I understood to mean "Filet of Beef with potatoes"  So then he started just talking to me in French!  He was kind enough to speak slowly and only use simple words, so I was able to have a small conversation with him!

Flirty Frenchmen - So, everyone says "Oh, the French are so rude!" and while we ran across a few rude people...the majority of the people we came in contact with were soo nice!  They graciously spoke English with us and were very helpful.  Some were even very humorous, like the man who helped us at the tourist info booth, who was extremely flirtatious with me!

The Louvre - Of course, we had to go to the most famous museum in the world!  Although, it was full of people and, just like the Eiffel Tower, we had to wait in a long line to even get inside.  The wait was worth it, though because we got to see famous works of art such as the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the Code of Hammurabi.  Just beware if you ever visit...it is a giant museum and impossible to do in only one day!

Outside the Louvre

The craziness that is the Mona Lisa room

Other adventures included: the Musee D'Orsay (which I actually preferred over the Louvre - just as many beautiful works of arts and way less people!) the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Élysées, where we ran into a New Years Parade!  We also saw the tomb of Napoleon and the armory museum.  And we walked through Notre Dame and climbed to the top of the dome in the Sacré Cœur.  Phew, it was a busy few days!

Musee D'Orsay which is converted train station

Arc de Triomphe

View from the Dome of the Sacré Cœur

The Sacré Cœur

Tomb of Napoleon

Notre Dame

Another unexpected highlight of our trip to Paris was running into an old high school friend, Kelli, who was in Paris with her new fiance!  I have not seen her since 2005 when we graduated.  Such a nice surprise to realize how small the world can be and run into people you know in a foreign country! 

Friend from high school - Kelli

Au revoir et à bientôt!